It's easy to forget how young the modern wine industry in Ontario is. Two-thirds of the province's wineries are less than eight years old, and most of the rest were opened in the 1990s. But some of those founded in the 1980s are among the best and most reliable; think of Cave Spring and Henry of Pelham.
Then there are the real veterans, like Inniskillin and Château des Charmes, started in the 1970s and well known for their quality wines at all levels.
One winery that's too often overlooked in these lists is Hillebrand Estates. It started as Newark Winery in 1979 and was renamed Hillebrand in 1982, when it was bought by a German company.
If Hillebrand doesn't have as high a profile as it might, there are two main reasons. First, one of its best-known wines is branded simply "Trius," and you have to look for "Hillebrand" in the fine print on the back of the bottle. (In fact, "Trius" has become so well recognized in its own right that the name has been added to "Hillebrand" on the big roadside sign at the winery.)
Second, many of Hillebrand's super-premium wines, such as its excellent 'Showcase' series and single-barrel chardonnays, are produced in small volumes and never see an LCBO shelf.
The Trius line does, though, and it's well worth trying. Trius Red has been in the LCBO for years, and it's consistently well-made and good value (as is the Trius Grand Red, which is a "Vintages Essential" wine). Several Trius varietal wines, such as riesling and cabernet franc, are also in the LCBO, as is the very good sparkling wine, Trius Brut. (All are reviewed today.)
The Trius line was created by Hillebrand's former winemaker, J.-L. Groux (now at Stratus Vineyards), who came from France and put a European stamp on the wines. They're now being made by Darryl Brooker, an Australian, and it will be interesting to see if they shift in style a few degrees toward the New World.
He's been there only two years, but already Mr. Brooker has added a Trius White to the range. It's made in what Mr. Brooker describes as an Alsatian style, and the 2006 vintage (the first) is a blend of pinot gris, gewürztraminer, riesling and unoaked chardonnay. It's quite delicious and you get a chance to try it when it's part of the Sept. 1 Vintages release ($18.95, LCBO No. 54957).
This new Trius white is only one sign of broader changes at Hillebrand. The winery itself has had a makeover with a new barrel cellar, a renovated restaurant (well worth a visit), new events facilities, and a small tower (called "The Winemaker's Lookout") from which you get a good view of the winery and vineyards.
There's new labelling, too, with an "Artist Series" featuring the work of Ontario artists. Watch for the "Artist Series" wines as they come into the LCBO. Already the LCBO has a gewürztraminer ($11.15, LCBO No. 554378) and a gamay noir rosé ($12.15, LCBO No. 49742), and others will appear in the next few months.
Hillebrand seems to be on the move, and it's worth keeping up with them.
Four of the excellent Trius wines in today's rack.