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August 01, 2007
Vintages a constant taster's adventure
 
Good-value wines for the barbecue
 

The release of wines by Vintages this Saturday includes a number that are very good value. These regular bi-weekly releases add significantly to the range of wines available on an ongoing basis at the LCBO. And although some wines in these Vintages releases sell for high prices, many are in the more affordable range common at the LCBO.

Here are a few highlights from Saturday's list.

Among the whites, there's a very good Spanish chardonnay for $12.95: Julian Chivite Gran Feudo Chardonnay 2006 (LCBO No. 129767). It has solid fruit (peach, apple, tropical) with fine balance, and it goes well with grilled chicken.

Also from Spain (the featured country of this release) is Martin Códax Burgáns Albariño 2006 ($17.95, No. 945063). Albariño is a favourite of mine, and this example delivers quite rich flavours of white peach with some spicy notes. It's excellent with grilled seafood.

There's an excellent Ontario white in this release, too: Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2006 ($16.95, No. 43281). This winery isn't represented on the LCBO General List, so it's a chance to taste something different. It's a very attractive riesling, with lovely fruit flavours and a great zesty texture, just the thing for slightly spicy grilled shrimp (with garlic and ginger).

A couple of rosés worth looking at are Domain Day "One Serious Rosé" from Australia ($19.95, No. 37093) and Caliterra Shiraz Rosé from Chile ($11.95, No. 34272). They're quite different in style, with the Domain Day more dense and structured and the Caliterra lighter and lively, with bright berry flavours. Drink the "Serious" one with grilled chicken, and sip the other as consolation as you sit back and wonder where the summer went.

On the red end of the spectrum, there's a nice syrah from South Africa: Porcupine Ridge Syrah 2006 ($14.95, No. 595280). It's full of black fruit flavours and a nice peppery texture, and it's excellent with grilled sausages.

Also from South Africa, try Serengeti Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot 2005 ($15.95, No. 37580). It's a bit rustic (the components jar a little) but I like that as a style for a lot of barbecued food. It has quite intense fruit flavours and nice balance, and it goes well with grilled red meats.

From Europe, three well-priced reds caught my attention: La Forêt Royale 2004 ($15.95, No. 41251) is a blend from southwest France and it's quite delicious -- full of dark fruit with notes of spice, pepper and smoke. It's a natural for barbecued red meats. So is Planeta "La Segreta" Rosso 2005 ($15.95, No. 936773). It's from Sicily and combines the island's nero d'avola grape with merlot and syrah for an intensely-flavoured red.

Further north, the Veneto region sends us Maculan Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 ($14.95, No. 987701), which I think is very good value. It's complex, concentrated, balanced, and great with grilled lamb chops.

Finally, there's a very good red from an earlier release that's still in Ottawa stores: Chapel Hill Shiraz-Grenache ($18.95, No. 37168). It's another excellent addition to your summer dining.

***

Three General List and one Vintages Essential wine that make great summer drinking.

Little Penguin Chardonnay-Riesling 2006 Packaged in unbreakable PET (and perfect for the pool or cottage), the little bird delivers a fruity, flavoursome and crisp white that's great for sipping or with spicy grilled seafood. Tropical fruit, peach and sweet pear flavours predominate. Alcohol 13 per cent, $9.95 (37366).
Château des Charmes Aligoté 2005 A Niagara take on a Burgundy grape, this has quite delicate flavours of peach and apple, with a clean, crisp texture. It's medium-bodied, dry, and goes well with steamed mussels or with fairly simple grilled white fish. Alcohol 12 per cent, $13.15 (284950).
Bellingham Shiraz 2004 A South African shiraz that delivers value year after year. Look for solid dark fruit (black cherry) and peppery spiciness here. It's dry, medium-bodied, and pairs very well with grilled red meats, especially lamb. Alcohol 14 per cent, $14.15 (554360).
Wolf Blass 'Premium Selection' Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 An Australian cab with quality to match its price. There are layers of blackberry and fruit flavours, with spiciness and hints of vanilla. It's dry, almost full-bodied, and has nice tannic grip. Drink this with full-flavoured red meat, like pepper steak. Alcohol 14 per cent, $24.95 (Vintages Essential, 321927).