It's a funny thing about Chardonnay. First, it's the only grape variety to have the reputation of being detested by vast numbers of wine consumers. That's the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement that wine writers love to draw to your attention.
On the other hand, Chardonnay remains the most popular white wine in the New World. (Most Europeans prefer whites made from their many indigenous white grapes.) If anything, plantings and sales of Chardonnay are increasing, rather than falling as detractors of the variety would like to see.
I've never understood the negative attitude toward Chardonnay. There are just beautiful Chardonnays out there, and many well-made, well-priced Chardonnays. True, there are many nondescript Chardonnays, too, but show me a grape variety that isn't turned into something mediocre and unappealing now and again.
The thing about Chardonnay is that it covers a wide variety of styles. There are lean, minerally crisp Chardonnays, like those from the northern Chablis district of Burgundy. There are rounder, smoother, almost buttery Chardonnays from Burgundy's southern regions. (Chardonnay is Burgundy's signature white grape.)
Then there are heavily oaked Chardonnays from regions like California and Australia, well-structured and elegant Chardonnays from the same regions, as well as fine Chardonnays from Ontario, New Zealand, Chile, South Africa and ... well, that says it all, doesn't it? Chardonnay is grown in almost all wine-producing countries.
Maybe that's what some people don't like about Chardonnay — there's just too much of it around. Scan the LCBO shelves and see. But that's no reason to shy away from Chardonnay. It might be a reason to drink Chardonnay only every now and again, but that strikes me as a sensible way of approaching any variety. Who wants a constant diet of any one variety?
The great thing about Chardonnay is that it does come in so many different styles. If you like big, fruity whites, there's a Chardonnay for you. If you like leaner, lighter, crisper whites, there's one for you, too. And everything in between.
Because Chardonnay is a relatively neutral grape, winemakers are able to put their personal stamp on the wine to an extent they can't with other varieties. Perhaps this is really what many anti-Chardonnay people have against the wine: that it seems to be more manipulated than other varietals.
There's a lot of nonsense written about wines "expressing their terroir" (which means that they somehow reflect their growing conditions), as if humans didn't make a thousand decisions about growing the vines and making the wine. Chardonnay, the quintessential "winemaker's grape," shows the problems with the idea of terroir and I can't help thinking that it's sometimes spurned because it's a spoiler in this way.
In any case, if you haven't tried a Chardonnay recently — and even more if you're one of those people who sneer at the variety — give it a break and try one. There are delicious examples in the LCBO, Vintages and the private wine stores in Ottawa.
The fifth annual Wine Auction of the Ottawa Chamber Music Society will be held on May 17 at Christ Church Cathedral, 260 Sparks St. The reception begins at 7 p.m., and the auction starts at 8 p.m. Highlights include rare Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone wines. The $50 ticket price can be applied towards any auction purchase. Call 234-8008 for information and tickets, or check the wine catalogue on the website at www.chamberfest.com.
Four Chardonnays this week.