My attention has been on Ontario wines recently. First, I’ve had the chance to taste a range of new wines from several Prince Edward County wineries. Some were from By Chadsey’s Cairns, including a well-made Pinot Noir made from county grapes. Then, at a Chinese restaurant, I had a very nice bottle of off-dry Riesling from Huff Estates. It’s made from Niagara grapes, but they have a Riesling made from county grapes just about ready for release.
Later, I tasted through the range of wines available from The Grange of Prince Edward County winery. They included a very good, quite intensely flavoured Pinot Gris made from county grapes and a white blend called “Assemblage.” Again, it’s county fruit, and a very attractive combination of Pinot Gris, Riesling, Chardonnay and Melon de Bourgogne (the Muscadet variety).
Finally, I tried a couple of first-class Pinot Noirs from Norman Hardie winery. The first was a 2004 vintage made from Niagara Peninsula grapes, and the second was a barrel sample of a 2005 made from Hardie’s own vines. Both were impressive.
You’ll see Prince Edward County wines creeping onto wine lists in Ottawa, and they’re worth trying. There’s still a lot of skepticism about the county’s viability as a wine region, but the proof is in the bottle. The real proof, of course, is when the bottle contains wine made from Prince Edward County grapes. Let’s face it, you can make wine from Niagara grapes in Ottawa, but it wouldn’t make Ottawa a wine region.
What county wineries need to do is make superior wine from local grapes — and they’ve proved they can — in sufficient volume and with regularity. It’s the volume and regularity that are the challenges, but it’s early days yet. If sheer energy and determination count for anything, they’ll make it.
I tried two pairs of wines from Niagara Peninsula wineries. In each case, the wines were made from grapes grown in different locations, but cultivated and vinified the same way. Therefore, the differences between the wines in each pair should reflect the different growing conditions — what’s often referred to as terroir.
Now, terroir is often misunderstood, and it’s certainly misused as a concept, as when wines are said to “express their terroir,” as if the winemaker had nothing to do with them. Where growing conditions are evident, though, is in cases like these where everything but growing site is pretty much identical.
One pair of wines is the 2001 Château des Charmes Chardonnays reviewed here today. They were grown in different vineyards but were otherwise almost the same, and there’s a huge difference in style.
Then there were two Pinot Noirs from Coyote’s Run winery. One was made from grapes grown on red clay and the other from vines planted in black clay. The first is all red fruit, the other, dark fruit. The differences show through dramatically. You can order these wines at www.coyotesrunwinery.com.
For St. Patrick’s Day, forget the faux green concoctions and go straight to the real stuff — Irish whisky. Three were in the March 4 Vintages release: Tyrconnell Single Malt ($46.95, 402396); Locke’s Eight-Year-Old Single Malt ($64.95, 913475); and Connemara Peated Single Malt ($64.95, 475921). I like the smoky, peaty flavours of the Connemara, but if you like a fruitier style, try the Tyrconnell.
Four Niagara wines this week, including the two Château des Charmes wines discussed today.