The great thing about the Riesling grape is the superb wines it can make. The sad thing is how few wine drinkers in Ontario include Riesling in their repertoire.
It's sad not only because they're missing some really excellent wines, but also because the LCBO and winery stores in Ottawa have a fair range of Canadian and non-Canadian Rieslings, and because Vintages regularly brings in quite a few more.
Maybe it's becoming a bit more popular than it was — I hear far fewer people saying "RYE-sling" instead of "REE-sling" these days, and there is always talk of a "Riesling Revival" &mdash but I think it's still too far out in left field for many wine consumers.
So here are some reasons to give it a go or to sample more widely among the Rieslings available.
First, Riesling comes in a number of styles, from bone-dry to ultra-sweet (as in icewine). Most are pitched in the dry to off-dry range though, where they pair well with many dishes. Above all, Riesling is a food wine, but Rieslings with a touch of sweetness are also perfect for sipping in summer or as an aperitif.
Second, what makes Riesling so successful as an aperitif and with food is its natural acidity. The mere mention of acidity can frighten some wine buyers who can only think of mouth-puckering, eye-watering sourness. But all wine needs acidity, and a well-balanced Riesling has acidity in the right proportion to fruit favours.
In Riesling, the flavours can range from tangy citrus through apple and pear to ripe tropical fruit. You'll also see references to hints of petrol in the aromas of some Rieslings. It's an aroma that I liken to an oily rag, and it emerges after a few years' aging in many German Rieslings but can appear quite early in some new world Rieslings.
Classic Rieslings come from Germany. There you find the full range of styles, including many off-dry and late-harvest versions, but all maintain the acidity that prevents the sweet fruit from becoming cloying.
For some reason — maybe the unpopularity of Riesling and the perception that German whites are sickly sweet — there are hardly any German Rieslings on the LCBO general list. Alsace is better represented. It's just across the border, and also produces fine Rieslings, some in a very dry style.
But make sure you check the VQA Ontario section for a good range, and look in private wine stores, especially Wine Rack (Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs) and Château des Charmes outlets in Ottawa. Riesling is a winter-hardy cool climate variety, and it does very well in Ontario. You'll find good quality and value.
As for pairing Riesling with food, it depends somewhat on the degree of sweetness in the wine. Dry Rieslings go well with smoked salmon and other fish and seafood that's oily or fatty: the acidity cuts through the oil. Off-dry Rieslings often pair well with spicy dishes, especially Asian cuisine. Very sweet Rieslings (late-harvest, icewine) match well with seared foie gras or salty blue cheese.
There's a world of Riesling out there and it really is worth investigating.
Creekside Estate Winery's personable winemaker Craig McDonald will preside over a winemaker's dinner at the National Arts Centre on March 10. A wine from either Creekside or Weir Estate (yes, Mike Weir, the golfer) will be paired with each dish. The evening starts with a wine reception at 6:30 p.m. with dinner at 7 p.m. Tickets ($85, taxes included) can be ordered by calling 947-7000, ext. 589.
Four Rieslings today, three VQA Niagara Peninsula, and one from Alsace.