Last Thursday, the third Thursday in November, the Nouveau wines were released. Every year on that day, millions of bottles of young red wine, most made from Gamay grapes, go on sale around the world.
Most are from the French region of Beaujolais, and the wines are often generically called Beaujolais Nouveau. Of course, they can only be called that if they're from Beaujolais, and three of the eight "Nouveau" style wines released by the LCBO last week were from Ontario and Italy.
What's the reason for this simultaneous release around the world? To sell a lot of wine in a short period. Up to a quarter of Beaujolais production is Nouveau, and at a time of sagging Beaujolais sales, Nouveau is increasingly important.
The simultaneous release began in the mid-1980s (when air transport made it possible to get wine quickly and inexpensively around the world), essentially to create a commercial buzz. It works. I'm told that the LCBO in Ottawa sells as much Nouveau as ever, but my clear sense is that interest has waned.
I recall parties on those Thursday nights as we tasted all the new releases, but I haven't held one or been invited to one for five years.
Frankly — and I'm trying not to sound snobbish here — there's not a lot to be said for most Nouveau wines. They're generally light and fruity with fresh berry and red fruit flavours, and little perceptible tannin. They're a distinctive style within the huge spectrum of wines available in Ontario, but I don't find them all that interesting.
They're misnamed, too. "Nouveau" actually refers to wines ready for drinking in their first year — before the following harvest. In this sense, many 2005 Sauvignon Blancs from the Southern Hemisphere currently on sale in the LCBO are Nouveau wines.
The "Nouveaus" that went on sale last week are actually Primeur wines, meant for drinking within months of harvest. Only Jeanjean, with Syrah Primeur, got it right.
I'm sometimes surprised that the Beaujolais region persists with the Nouveau name and style, because it's led many people to think that all Beaujolais wine is Nouveau. In fact, most Beaujolais is serious wine, and the higher levels (many of the named sub-regions like Moulin-a-Vent and Brouilly) are very fine. Try the Duboeuf Moulin-a-Vent in the LCBO ($18.65, No. 154864) alongside one of the Nouveaus from Beaujolais, and taste the difference.
The taint (if that's not too strong a word) of Nouveau has also spread more generally to the Gamay grape. Gamay has had a rough time over the centuries. It was banished from the Cote-d'Or region of Burgundy as a "disloyal grape" in favour of Pinot Noir, and found a home in exile in Beaujolais (which is part of greater Burgundy).
Another region where Gamay does very well is Ontario, and you might compare the Beaujolais versions with local examples such as Cave Spring Gamay ($12.95, LCBO No. 228569) and Chateau des Charmes Gamay Droit ($14.95, LCBO No. 968982).
Four of the Nouveau wines today — my favourites among the eight that are available.