One of the wines reviewed today is an Italian red called Nerello del Bastardo. The back label says that it's "obtained from overproduction of noble Piedmont grapes ... carefully blended in a small quantity of Tuscan wine."
It turns out to be a blend of Nebbiolo and a little Sangiovese, but because it's neither recognized in Italian wine law nor from a single designated wine area, the wine can't be classified as an appellation or regional wine. Instead, it's classified "Vino da Tavola Rosso" — "red table wine," the lowest rank in the Italian wine league.
They draw attention to its status by calling it "Bastardo," an illegitimate wine. ("Nerello" means a little black grape, in the same way as Brunello.)
So it's plonk, right? And way overpriced at $13.95?
Not at all. It's terrific wine, with value far beyond its price, with great fruit and ... well, read the review below.
The point is that although it's easy to dismiss a wine because it doesn't carry the highest classification, there are some excellent wines in the lower categories.
Italians have been in this situation before, when some Tuscan producers began to use unapproved grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon in the 1970s. Their wines, now icons like Sassicaia and Tignanello, were expensive "table wines" that won critical acclaim and were quickly called "Super-Tuscans." Italian wine law was liberalized as a result.
Now, there are good reasons for wine laws. They regulate the basic information on labels to ensure that if you buy something called Merlot, a minimum percentage of the wine is Merlot and the grapes were grown in the stated region.
Consumer guarantees like these are proper, but wine laws can be restrictive, too, and most European wine producers work within very narrow margins. To label their wines with specific regional names (such as Bordeaux and Chianti), they must use only approved grapes with maximum yields and follow highly regulated growing and wine-making practices. Some regions specify the shape of the bottle.
It's understandable that regions want to protect themselves from rogue producers who overcrop, produce poor wine, and harm a region's reputation — especially where wine is identified by appellation, as it is so often in Europe.
New World wine countries have relatively relaxed laws. They regulate labelling practices, but producers can use any grape variety, blend any varieties, and have more freedom in viticultural and wine-making practices.
Many European producers see themselves losing market share because they work in a more restrictive environment, and for years there's been a debate about changing Europe's wine laws. The drastic decline in French wine exports recently led to changes: more French wines will be labelled by grape variety in the future.
Of course, there are traditions and sometimes brands to protect. Can you see Petrus, the Pomerol (Bordeaux) wine that sells for $1,000 a bottle and is 97 per cent Merlot, labelled simply "Merlot''?
The purpose of any wine law should be first and foremost to protect and inform consumers. The label just needs to make it clear what's inside the bottle. Until then, producers have to conceal their grape varieties behind names like "Nerello del Bastardo."
The four very good wines included in today's rack are all well-priced.